18" Klein strap wrench - $75 - Wouldn't have been able to remove or replace the crankshaft pulley or the camshaft sprockets without this tool. I did pay a little more buying locally than some of the online prices I've seen, but who knows what shipping would have been.
1/2" drive torque wrench - Gift - Turns out most of the fasteners are better suited to the 3/8" torque range than the 20-150 ft*lb range of this wrench. I was needed for the crankshaft pulley bolt at 130 foot*pounds.
3/8" drive torque wrench - $22 - The 5-80 ft*lb range of this range was better suited for most of the fasteners. It turns out that I could have used a lower rated wrench for some of the bolts which were rated to about 7 ft*lbs.
1/2" drive Craftsman socket set (ebay) - $32 - I felt more comfortable on the high torque fasteners like the head bolts, crankshaft pulley bolt than just using my 3/8 sockets with an adaptor. Plus, I needed a 22mm for the crankshaft pulley. I also had two half-inch drive ratchets, and two half-inch drive breaker bars.
K-tool seal remover set - $7 - (one shown - orange handle) Slipping the tip of one of these under a hose and the pulling with the other hand made difficult hose removal much easier
Digital Torque Adaptor - $50 - Peace of mind when using my inexpensive Harbor Freight torque wrenches since a torque wrench with a national lab calibration certificate starts at about $170. I really needed to get another torque wrench with a lower end, but this allowed me to get the low torques required by some of the bolts.
Shaft Type Seal Puller - $12 - I didn't need it for the camshaft seals because I took the camshaft caps off but it was great for the front main oil seal. It still left a small scratch on the crankshaft, but maybe I wasn't careful enough. Because of this tool driving the front crank seal back in was harder than getting it out.
Torque Angle Meter - $10 - Honestly, I could have stood to spend an extra couple buck for the Lisle one because this one was difficult to use in the tight space I had and not very confidence inspiring. However, it worked perfectly on the driver's side when I used the socket caps and 11/16" combination wrench.
1"x48" pipe for a breaker bar - $15 - Without this I wouldn't have been able to remove my crank pulley.
Craftsman Professional 11/16" combination wrench - $12 - Needed it to turn the 1/2" socket cap (below) as I only have a set of metric combination wrenches. The professional is longer and only $2 more than the normal version. Believe me I needed the extra length.
Craftsman Socket Cap Set - $11 - Again there's a space issue in screwing in head bolts using the socket and the torque angle meter. These saved my life. I didn't have them for installing the head on the passenger side and it was really frustrating trying to get the angles right on the bolts. The driver's side, which has less space went very smoothly with one of these on the gauge.
OEM offset feeler gauge set - $5 - (not pictured) free with my Autozone rewards $ I would have liked to have more blades in the smaller size but this should work for adjusting the valve clearance.
Great Neck Putty Knife - $3 - free with my Autozone rewards $. I used my file to keep a good edge on this and it was great for removing gasket material and even some small metal irregularities.
1/2" drive 25" breaker bar - $12 - I wish I'd had one of these for a long time. This made getting stuck fasteners loosened easy and even just made is easier to tun some tight ones. Plus, adding the 48" pipe to this made it possible to remove the crankshaft pulley. It was able to get the frost plug, about which I've read horror stories, out without a problem.
Actron Compression Tester Kit - $40 - (not pictured) - without a compression gague I wouldn't have found top dead center of cylinder 1. I would have bought the one that was $10 cheaper but they were out.